Sewing Together

There are many different types of fleece fabric. Some are very thin and light for undergarments and others are very heavy with a water repellant surface treatments that are designed mountain climbing. All colors and a wide range of thicknesses and surface treatments are found in fleece. It is usually polyester but it can be blended with other fibers.

Pre washing of fleece fabric is not necessary because it does not shrink or bleed. Launder fleece garments inside out with similar garments. Use cold water with powdered laundry detergent on a gentle cycle. Liquid laundry detergents can effect the moisture wicking and water repellent properties of fleece fabric. Do not use bleach, fabric softeners or dryer sheets. Tumble dry for short time on a low setting. Over drying will shorten the life of the garment. The best way to dry is to shake out and hang up. Do not dry clean.

Never press fleece, it will melt. If it needs a bit of touch up try steaming the garment and use a clothes brush to revive the nap. Use a clothes shaver or a sweater comb to remove the ‘pills’ that form on the outside where the fleece rubs. Especially in places like the under arms.

It is often hard to tell the right side from the wrong side of a fleece fabric. Look closely at each side. The better looking side is the outside. Looking at the edge you may see that one side is thinner than the other. The thinner side is the outside. If you can’t decide from those tips just choose one side of the fabric as the outside and be consistent. Mark the inside of each piece with a small piece of blue painters tape. This tape will not leave goo on the fabric. Mark the notches and other construction points with a fabric marker on the inside. Do not try to clip the notches because the clips will be difficult to locate. On pieces like pockets it is difficult to tell the top from the bottom always mark the top edge.

The edges of fleece fabric do not have to be finished. It does not ravel. It can be dressed up with pinking shears or a wavy blade rotary cutter for a decorative effect. Fleece seam binding (Wright's) or regular cloth seam binding can be used to cover up the exposed edges. Some people like to work a blanket stitch, or other decorative stitch, around the edges either by machine or hand stitching.

When you begin sewing insert a new needle, Universal 90 is a good choice to start with. Set the stitch length at 4 mm or 8-10 spi. A too short stitch length will cause the fleece to stretch. Thread the machine with a good quality polyester thread and practice on scraps before starting the garment. If the stitching is not looking right try a stretch or ball point needle. If the fabric is very thick lighten the presser foot pressure. The instructions are in your sewing machine manual. Reducing the thread tension may also help the stitch quality.

The information presented here is very basic.The absolute expert on all types of fleece is Nancy Cornwell. Her books Adventures with Polar Fleece, More Polar Fleece Adventures and Polar Magic have all of the answers to any sewing problems concerning fleece fabric. In addition they contain hundreds of suggestions and ideas for fleece garments and projects. These books are easy to read and a great addition to your sewing library.

Make a fleece cape to wear with your square dance outfits. It will keep you toasty warm without crushing your ruffles or mashing your skirts. A long cape in your club colors will make a great entrance at the next dance. There will be patterns for and examples of different types of fleece capes at the 61st National Square Dance Convention in Spokane. Stop by the Sewing Studio to see the many displays and new patterns to trace.